At CARiD, we have featured many stories in our Guides and Articles section which provide step-by-step instructions for DIY repairs. We have always promoted and encouraged car owners to follow the DIY path. It saves money, allows you to select the parts that you want installed, and provides the satisfaction of a job well-done.
Many DIY jobs require that the car be lifted such as for an oil change, brake pad replacement, or exhaust work. We always stress that you should work safely, and when lifting a vehicle, that means using appropriate jacks and jack stands. The jack supplied with the car to change a flat tire is NOT appropriate for lifting the car for service work. And do we really need to state that cinder blocks and milk crates are not safe substitutes for strong jack stands?
While car owners dream of a home garage lift, the cost and space requirements for such a unit puts it out of reach for many. Instead, a one-time investment in a quality floor jack (also called a service jack) and a set of jack stands pays back unlimited dividends. Owning this equipment encourages you to work on your ride, and gives you the confidence that both you and your car or truck will be safe from any unwanted incidents.
Before you purchase lifting equipment, you should determine the curb weight of your vehicle(s). The curb weight is specified by the manufacturer and is the weight of the car or truck with all fluids filled (including the fuel tank) but without any passengers or cargo. It is NOT the same as the “gross weight” stated on the label on or near the driver’s door jamb. The GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is the weight of the vehicle PLUS passengers and cargo. Knowing the curb weight (a call to the manufacturer or an Internet search will tell you) helps you select jacks and jack stands with the appropriate weight ratings for your use.
We created this FAQ article to address the variety of questions which come our way. If your question is not answered here, reach out to our helpful sales agents who will respond quickly via phone, chat, or email.
Q. How do I determine the weight rating I need?
- For floor jacks:
As a best practice, err on the side of safety when making a selection. Even though the jack is lifting only one corner or one end of the vehicle, you know you’re safe if the weight rating is high enough to lift the entire vehicle.
Floor jacks are rated by the number of tons they can lift. Common ratings start at 1.5 tons (1.5t), and include 2t, 2.5t, and 3t jacks. One ton is equal to 2,000 pounds, so 1.5t = 3,000 lb., 2t = 4,000 lb., 2.5t = 5,000 lb., and 3t = 6,000 lb. If your vehicle’s curb weight is 4,000 lb., we recommend a 2t jack. You can always purchase one higher rated, but do not use one that’s rated lower.
The Refine Menu on the left side of the screen allows you to narrow down your focus based on the floor jack’s capacity, as shown here:
Our recommendation is to select a jack which is rated at the same weight rating as the total curb weight of your vehicle.
- For jack stands:
Jack stands, almost always sold in pairs, are also rated in tons. Commonly seen ratings include 2t, 3t, and 6t. However, the weight rating is for the pair of jack stands. For example, the Performance Tool 2t jack stand set pictured below is rated at 2 tons, meaning, 2 tons for the pair. Each jack stand is rated at 1 ton (2,000) pounds.
Similar to floor jacks, our recommendation is to purchase a pair of jack stands with a weight rating equal to the total curb weight of your vehicle. Given that the pair of jack stands are only supporting one end of a vehicle at a time, this provides a sufficient safety margin.
Q. How do I determine the necessary minimum and maximum height?
Weight rating is the single most important factor when making purchases in these categories. The second-most important factor is probably the minimum and maximum heights, and these are a matter of practicality as well as safety.
- For floor jacks:
How low is your sports car? How high is your (lifted) truck? The first question to answer is, what is the distance from the ground to the vehicle’s jacking point? For a Corvette, it might be 4 inches. For a Ram 2500, it might be 12 inches.
If you own a low-slung car, the floor jack needs to fit under it. Cars with lowering kits installed are even lower than factory. Trucks sit high from the factory; a truck with a lift kit only increases that initial distance from floor to jacking point. Of course, a jack with a low minimum height will fit under a truck, but the important question then becomes determining if its maximum height provides any lift at all.
Start with minimum height. This floor jack from AFF pictured below has one of the lowest-minimum-height specs available at 2.75”. (Also be aware that it’s rated at 2 tons, or 4,000 lb.)
By contrast, this Torin jack below has a minimum height of 5.12”, and is therefore probably only useful on SUVs and pickup trucks. It’s also rated at a higher weight rating of 2.75 tons (5,500 lb.).
Most service jacks will have a maximum lift height in the 18” to 20” range. If you need more than that, you will be seeking out a larger, heavier and pricier jack. For example, this Hein-Werner unit below lifts to 23.5”, and is also rated for 3 tons (6,000 lb.), making it useful for most SUVs and pickup trucks.
For floor jacks, our recommendation for minimum height is one which must fit under the car or truck. For maximum height, it must raise the vehicle enough to at least get the tires off the ground.
- For jack stands:
Once the jack has lifted the car, an appropriate jack stand needs to fit under it. If you will be lifting your car around 13”-14” or so, you need jack stands with a minimum height below that. These jack stands from AFF pictured below have a minimum lifting height of 11.75”, one of the lower ones on the market. (They are also rated for 3 tons, or 6,000 lb.).
At the other extreme, once you’ve raised a truck that’s got 20” of height before you even roll the jack under it, you will need jack stands with higher maximum height. Both the weight rating and the price reflect the heavy-duty nature of such stands. An example is this set below from Hein-Werner, rated at 10 tons (20,000 lb.) and able to provide a maximum lift of 31”. Even for cars at ‘regular’ heights, if your plans include raising a car as high as possible for underbody work, a set of stands like these could prove useful.
For jack stands, our recommendation for minimum and maximum height is that the stands must be able to fit under the car once you’ve jacked it up to your minimum working height, and the stands must reach the highest point to which you will raise the vehicle.
Q. How many jacks and jack stands should I consider purchasing?
At an absolute minimum, you should have one floor jack, and one pair (quantity 2) of jack stands.
- For floor jacks:
There are several scenarios where it makes sense to have more than one floor jack. One such scenario is the ownership of two different vehicles. If one vehicle is a lowered sports car and the other is a lifted truck, it makes sense that you would need a floor jack with a low minimum height for the car, and a jack with a higher-than-average maximum lift height for the truck. Another reason to own multiple jacks is weight rating. If you already own a functioning jack and purchase another (heavier) vehicle, you may need a second jack with a higher rating. There can also be a unique scenario on unibody cars, where using two jacks to lift two sides simultaneously makes jack stand placement easier. Assess your own situation and don’t presume that one jack can always serve all purposes.
- For jack stands:
Similar to the scenarios with floor jacks, if you own several vehicles which have different requirements for minimum and maximum heights and weight ratings, it makes sense to have a set of jack stands for each. There are other reasons, though, to consider multiple sets of stands. One is the need to raise both front and rear off the ground at the same time. Obviously, this can only be accomplished with four jack stands. Yet another is for times when a car may be raised for an extended period. If you own several vehicles but only one pair of jack stands, and those stands were tied up under a long-term project car, you would need a second set of stands for the other vehicle.
Our recommendation is owning, at a minimum, one floor jack and one pair of jack stands. Those who own several cars, frequently change cars, or perform significant DIY work should own two floor jacks and two pairs of jack stands which have varying minimum and maximum heights and weight ratings to accommodate the vehicles in your household.
Q. Is aluminum a strong enough material for these products?
Most jacks and jack stands we sell are made of steel, however, you will also find some selections offered in aluminum. While aluminum jacks tend to cost more than their steel counterparts, aluminum’s chief advantage is weight savings. If you need to frequently lift or carry a jack, or need to regularly move it to an area where wheeling it is impractical, consider an aluminum floor jack.
For example, this Sunex 2-ton aluminum floor jack weighs just 49 pounds. By comparison, Sunex makes an all-metal 2-ton jack which weighs double that at 97 pounds.
Jack stands are also available in aluminum. Since their overall size is smaller than a floor jack, the comparative weight savings is not as great. Still, if bulk is a primary purchase consideration, then look into aluminum stands. Our example below again comes from Sunex; the pair of 3-ton aluminum stands weighs only 12 pounds.
Q. Are there other features I should consider when deciding on a purchase?
- For floor jacks:
Some jacks offer what is called “rapid lift”: instead of pumping the handle numerous times before the saddle contacts the vehicle, a “rapid lift” or “quick pump” jack senses no load and the jack will raise much more quickly. Those who own taller or lifted vehicles will find this handy. If storage is a concern, look for a jack with a removable pump handle that also is a two-piece design, which provides some storage flexibility compared to a non-removable or one-piece handle. Speaking of handles, some jacks have a side handle on the jack base, giving you a convenient spot to grab when lifting it. You are more likely to find side handles on aluminum jacks. Finally, look at the shape of the saddle itself. Does it appear to conform to your needs? Lifting body-on-frame vehicles is different than unibody vehicles. Determine if the saddle shape is the best choice for your car or truck.
- For jack stands:
Images of jack stands on our site show two main designs: the ratcheting arm, and the pinned arm. The ratchet arm allows for finer height adjustment. Some ratcheting jack stands now also include a locking pin for additional security. There are those who prefer the pin type, although the spacing between pin holes does not allow for as fine height adjustments. Some jack stands have flanged edges or feet at the bottom for greater security and which prevent the stand’s bottom from sinking into softer material such as warm asphalt. And like floor jacks, consider what saddle shapes will best serve your needs, depending on the design of your car or truck.
This Chicago Pneumatic 6t jack stand set features a ratcheting arm with pin lock, and splayed feet for greater sturdiness on softer surfaces.
These pin-style 3t jack stands from AME International have a rubber saddle, and wide legs with broad feet in a tripod design.
We trust that you have found this FAQ guide to floor jacks and jack stands helpful! Remember that you can shop our digital shelves 24/7, using our descriptions, photos, and reviews to help make your decision. If you seek further input, contact one of our sales agents by phone, email, or chat for their guidance. Enjoy working on your car!
